On your own through Bali – three waterfalls and a temple

Organize a driver for Bali

The driver Max found online in Instagram a few months Before we visited Bali. He wrote to him and negotiated the price with him. The the new date and the content of the tour a few days before the tour. also on Instagram. The payment was made in cash only at the end of the tour.

The cost for a driver including car and fuel for one day is 700,000 IDR after negotiations.

Doing it ourselves by car or scooter was out of the question for us because of the chaotic driving style of the Balinese

The drivers for the tour in Bali

The day starts early. Already at 8:00 the driver stands in front of our villa. Actually, there are two drivers – neither of them is the man, with whom we had written and negotiated in advance. Instead we have two more or less or less motivated young men who accompany us through the day.

Reisfelder auf Bali

The Tour Planning for Bali

Our first stop is the Tegenungan waterfall. This is 35 kilometers from Denpasar and our accommodation away. Already with the day planning there is a small drama, because our drivers on the route still a Kopi Luwak coffee plantation has scheduled.

For the production of Kopi Luwak cat-like animals, the spotted musangs, eat the coffee beans, digest and excrete them. In addition the animals are often held under miserable conditions on smallest area held. Even if one would not get to see this during the we refuse the visit of the plantation and the financial support of this and the accompanying financial support of this animal husbandry. Our driver is perplexed. However, we just want to go to the agreed waterfalls.

The city traffic in the area around Denpasar is also on this this day as always cordially chaotic. Scooters and cars jostle each other with little little regard for traffic rules through the much too narrow streets of the city. Alone until we have left the city passes already half an hour.

The ride on the country road is more pleasant. The road is partly in a good condition. The other cars and scooters drive here not better, but they spread out a little more. Faster than 50km / h drive we drive however only rarely. Too many dogs, people, scooters, bikes, chickens, cats, baskets, trees and other obstacles get in the way of our car. queer. But since it is Sunday, we still make better progress than usual – our driver explains to us.

After just under one and a half hours we reach the parking lot of the waterfall.

Tegenungan Waterfall

Tickets for the waterfall cost IDR 20,000.

Above the waterfall there are some souvenir stalls and small restaurants. You walk to a small viewing platform. From here you can see the waterfall in a valley, the river and the resort, which is above the waterfall. From here, there are numerous stairs down the mountain.

Along the stairs there are always nests and baskets, in which one can sit down for beautiful Instagram pictures. Many tourists gladly take up the offer.

Near the waterfalls there are some springs, which are in basins are caught. In them (religious) ablutions are performed. As we run past, however, just a larger group of native Children in it.

The Tegenungan waterfall falls down a stone cliff. Below it, the water collects in a basin and then drains into a river drain.

There have already gathered numerous tourists and tour groups gathered here.

You could swim, only the area directly at the waterfall is closed off for safety reasons.

Above the waterfall there are several rock plateaus and a resort with restaurant. Access to these costs another IDR 20,000. Admission. We pass and make our way back. For us it is today simply too full here.

The Kanto Lampo waterfall

Our next stop is the Kanto Lampo waterfall. Although 10 km from the Tegenungan waterfall, it takes us three quarters of an hour to cover the distance. three quarters of an hour to cover the distance.

The waterfall is at the end of a small village. The site itself is far less touristy. Only a small car park and signs indicate that there is an attraction in the forest. in the forest.

There are also steps down to this waterfall. The Entrance fee to the Kanto Lampo waterfall is also IDR 20,000.

The  waterfall plunges sideways into a river . The water falls down numerous stone steps, forming shower-like waterfalls in several places that splash onto the flat rock below.

The waterfall is particularly beautiful because of its location in the middle of the forest. forest. The majestic tall trees around it provide shade and give the feeling of being of being in a lost place. The numerous tourists, however however.

This place has also appeared in a number of pictures on pictures on Instagram. The imitators were not long in coming.

Now queues of tourists are lining up, all wanting to recreate the photos, they’ve seen online. We don’t see people who are really having fun and splashing around we don’t see.

We are so annoyed that we don’t go to the waterfall at all. go to the waterfall. We take a few pictures from the viewing platform and then walk into the stream a bit off the beaten track. The water there is very refreshing and if you wait a little bit and if you wait a little while, little fish come and nibble at your feet. like a spa, only more natural.

The Tibumana Waterfall

The last waterfall on this day is the Tibumana waterfall. We had been there once before in 2016 and found it very idyllic then. The stairs were a bit battered, but there were not many people there. there.

The waterfall is idyllically situated at the end of a road lined with palm trees. lined road with rice fields on either side. Already at the car park we notice that the infrastructure here has become much better in the last few years. years. There is now a proper car park, a restaurant, toilets and a proper ticket office. toilets and a proper ticket office. The stairs have also been renewed.

Admission to Tibumana waterfall still costs 15,000 IDR.

We walk down the concrete steps. The sides of the path are beautifully planted with flowers and you walk through the jungle. It is pleasant here to walk here.

At the end of the path comes the waterfall. It lies at a semi-circular fault edge, which is densely overgrown with vegetation.

Unfortunately, this place is no longer an insider tip either. Also Instagrammers are now queuing up for the perfect picture here too.

Only very few dare to go into the waterfall, however. In the left side of the natural water basin, because at the moment parts of the cliff above parts of the cliff above (mainly sand) keep falling off. A lifeguard monitors compliance with the rules.

Since it’s the last waterfall, we do struggle through to go into the water. It is refreshing and pleasant. But we don’t last long. but not for long.

The path to the waterfall is idyllic
Instagram pictures are still possible with a little patience

As we continue our journey, we see a few other waterfall signs near the Tibumana waterfall we see several other signs indicating waterfalls. If we we were not so hungry, we would check out if they are less touristy. less touristy. The local infrastructure at least does not seem to be so many visitors.

Lunch at Warung D’Yoni

Our drivers have recommended the place we are about to go to. However, judging by their uncertain glances at the menu, they seem never to have been been here before. If we had known, we would have had a bite to eat at one of the waterfalls. one of the waterfalls and then explored the waterfalls nearby. explored the waterfalls nearby.

So we end up somewhat unexpectedly in a typical excursion restaurant. The restaurant is beautiful with lots of wood and has a great view on the terrace over the view over the leafy canopy of the forest below.

 The prices are touristy, but still within reason. The portions could be a bit bigger. Max and Benni eat sate skewers and Martina eats gado gado (a dish with tempeh, tofu, vegetables and peanut sauce)

While we are eating, it starts to rain in torrents. It is a real monsoon downpour.

Tirta Empul Temple

Our last stop is the Temple Tirta Empul. This Temple looks back on a history of almost 1000 years. It houses the spring Tirta Empul, which gives it its name. For Hindus, the temple has a special special significance for Hindus, as purification rituals are performed here.

For tourists, the entrance fee to the temple Tirta. Empul costs IDR 50,000. Included in the price is a sarong to borrow at the entrance.

During ceremonies, all types of cameras are prohibited in the temple. forbidden. Women who are on their period are not allowed to enter the temple. Asked (or checked), however, is not allowed.

The first part of the temple consists of water basins, into which fresh water runs from a series of gargoyles. Many worshippers and a tourists are washing their heads under the cold water. Some large fish swim around in the basin. A small snake peeps out of a crack in the wall of the temple above the pools. a small snake peeps out of a crack in the wall of the temple above the pools.

The rear part of the temple is only partially accessible to tourists. A large part is reserved for worshippers.

Then we reach the Tirta Empul spring. It lies walled in a large basin. You cannot enter it. You can see mud swirling up in several places in the basin from the water pushing up through the ground from below. Algae grow in the shallow water and a few fish swim around.

Finally, we go to another large pool where countless fish are cavorting. It seems to have just been cleaned and is being re-filled. Accordingly, all the fish are crowded together in shallow water in one part of the tank. A small wall separates them from the rest of the pool. Every now and then the crowding in the tank gets so big that a fish accidentally slips over the wall. We sit at the edge of the pool for a while and watch the animals. At first they do their best to resist being washed over the wall, although there is a much nicer pond waiting on the other side. As the water rises, however, word seems to slowly spread among the fish that the other side of the pond is nicer and one fish after another hops awkwardly over the wall. At a stall next to the pond you can buy fish food for 5000 IDR. We treat the stressed little animals to a bag.

We leave the temple. The way back to the car park would be from the Exit only about fifty metres. But a steward prevents us from taking the direct from taking the direct route and instead sends us through the souvenir stalls. These zigzagging for several hundred metres and in the end we end up in the wrong parking lot. we end up at the wrong car park. It is the annoying end of an otherwise very pleasant visit to the temple. visit to the temple.

The way back to Denpasar

The return journey to Denpasar takes just under two hours. On the way we chat a little with our drivers. It turns out that that one of them doesn’t have a driving licence and doesn’t dare to drive in the city centre. dare to drive in the city centre. That’s why he has his buddy with him. Both of them have spent half the night playing computers and sleep when they are not driving. At the end they try to find out the the price for the day with quite obvious questions. We are hardened by now and don’t go into it. It’s a bit of a pity that this bad habit has crept into Bali as well.

Our conclusion of the day

Whoever wants to be flexible in the planning of the day and be free to how long they want to stay at the various stations, there is really no alternative to a driver. Grab and Go Jek are not so well available at all remote available at all remote stations so that one could drive around with them. When touring through tour providers, you are inevitably subject to the scheduling of the agency and can agency’s scheduling and you cannot choose your stops. Information about information about the individual places should not be expected from the driver. not to expect. For this you have to dig deeper into your pocket and book a tour with a guide. book a tour with a guide.

We were not entirely satisfied with our drivers this time. drivers. Last time, in 2016, we were much luckier. Bali has also become more touristy since then. So don’t expect too much on tours. too much on tours. If you want to escape the tourist crowds, we recommend the north of Bali. north of Bali, which is rather difficult to access.

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